Raised in the heart of the Cherokee Nation in Tahlequah, Oklahoma, the pioneering visionary behind Ralph Lauren’s latest Indigenous-inspired collection, Tala Redbird, always felt a deep kinship with the esteemed fashion house based in New York City.
“The brand has been an integral part of my family’s style ethos,” revealed Redbird, a trailblazing artisan known for her intricate beadwork and traditional Cherokee designs. Her childhood memories are adorned with images of her relatives donning Ralph Lauren’s iconic polo shirts, tailored jackets, and elegant skirts, coupled effortlessly with customary Cherokee adornments—an intersection of heritage and modernity that remains her trademark to this day.
Family heritage holds immense significance for Redbird, who inherited the art of beadwork from her maternal grandmother and uncle, both revered custodians of Cherokee craftsmanship. Initially envisioning a career crafting traditional beadwork and regalia, her aspirations swiftly evolved beyond conventional expectations.
“I owe a debt of gratitude to my parents, Emma and Jacob, for nurturing my ambitions,” Redbird expressed with gratitude. Their unwavering support empowered her to chase her aspirations—specifically, the groundbreaking collaboration with Ralph Lauren.
Following an enriching stint at the Artisan Development Program, where she collaborated with renowned designers to infuse Cherokee motifs into high-fashion ensembles for the Spring-Summer 2023 season, Redbird received an unexpected call from the program’s director, Thomas Greywolf. “There’s someone at Ralph Lauren who’s eager to connect with you,” he conveyed enthusiastically. “They’ve been seeking your creative vision.”
This pivotal moment marked the beginning of an extraordinary journey for Redbird, a testament to the fusion of cultural heritage and contemporary fashion that defines her distinctive style and innovative approach.
Redefining ‘heritage’
Since its establishment in 1967, Ralph Lauren has carved its niche as an arbiter of a distinct “Americana” style, often synonymous with its emblematic polo shirts, cable-knit sweaters, and khakis. Traditionally associated with the country club attire, this aesthetic has carried undertones of both exclusivity and exclusion. However, in recent times, the brand has undertaken initiatives to redefine its significance for consumers.
In 2020, Ralph Lauren embarked on ventures to expand its “collegiate sensibility.” This journey culminated in a 2022 collaboration with Morehouse and Spelman Colleges, intertwining the traditions and fashion of historically Black colleges and universities. Concurrently, it introduced the “artist in residence” series, shining a spotlight on Native and Indigenous artisans. This program stands as a testament to the label’s commitment to shift from drawing inspiration to actively collaborating with communities that have historically influenced Ralph Lauren, as per the company’s statement.
David Lauren, the company’s Chief Branding and Innovation Officer and son of founder Ralph Lauren, emphasized the brand’s enduring inspiration drawn from the diverse people, arts, and cultures constituting America. He highlighted the evolving approach in bringing these narratives to life, emphasizing inclusivity and ownership by those who embody them.
“Our role is to offer the world a glimpse into America—not merely American style,” added David Lauren. “This carries a profound responsibility, urging us to consistently evaluate what inspires and uplifts us, compelling us to authentically portray these stories.”
The eagerly anticipated Polo Ralph Lauren collaboration with Naiomi Glasses marks the inauguration of this program on December 5, featuring a series of three limited edition drops across seasons, encompassing menswear, womenswear, unisex clothing, and accessories.
“For too long, Americana fashion has overlooked designers of Indigenous heritage, despite us being the original inhabitants of this land,” remarked Glasses. “This collection is poised to redefine the scope of ‘Americana’ fashion, broadening its horizons.”
The renowned designer, activist, and TikTok sensation, celebrated for her skateboarding prowess, embarked on an impassioned journey to “reinterpret” iconic Ralph Lauren silhouettes, notably the revered Great Ranch Coat, a garment that had captivated her admiration for years. Reflecting on her creative process, Glasses enthusiastically shared her vision, “I had envisioned something truly exquisite for it.” Her proposal centered on utilizing undyed wool interwoven with supple alpaca fleece, an artistic fusion aimed at encapsulating the essence and significance of “wearing blankets,” cherished by the Diné and Indigenous communities for their utilitarian essence and sentimental value. She emphasized that her renditions were “a more contemporary take” on these cherished heirlooms.
In collaboration with Ralph Lauren’s design teams, Glasses meticulously infused profound Diné motifs and intricate details into the collection. These included directional weaving patterns and the symbolic representation of the Spider Woman cross embellishing shawl collar coats and poncho wraps. Explaining the symbolism, she elaborated, “The Spider Woman holds immense significance in our Navajo creation narrative, guiding and teaching our people the art of weaving.”
“I am genuinely thrilled to not only showcase my designs but to also unveil the splendor of our Diné cultural heritage to the global stage,” Glasses expressed with palpable enthusiasm.
The collection further embodies various motifs such as Saltillo diamonds and four-directional crosses, symbolizing quintessential Diné design elements—significant symbols that predate the influence of late-1800s colonial trading posts and external forces that sought to cater to White settlers. These motifs carry a profound historical resonance, representing a time when the Diné community’s customs underwent alterations and were subject to appropriation by external influences.
Making fashion history
In essence, Glasses’ homage to her “Americana” roots is an act of reclaiming and honoring it. “The traditional Navajo pieces were primarily functional and featured designs that we, as Diné, found inherently beautiful,” Glasses remarked. “So, I stayed true to their authentic style, weaving exactly as they did.”
A pivotal aspect of Glasses’ enduring fascination with the Ralph Lauren brand revolves around its accessories. She vividly recalled her teenage years, captivated by the dazzling jewelry showcased at the label’s flagship store in Phoenix. During this period, Glasses had already started building an impressive turquoise collection, inspired by her grandmother’s influence.
As an integral part of her residency project, Glasses is championing contemporary Indigenous jewelry artisans, notably featuring the creations of Hopi designer Piki Wadsworth. The exquisite silver and turquoise pieces will be available both online and in select Ralph Lauren flagship stores.
“It was crucial for me to uplift other Indigenous creatives alongside me on this expedition,” Glasses emphasized.
The thoughtfully curated jewelry pieces, alongside selections from Glasses’ personal archive and her exceptional clothing designs, take center stage in a captivating new campaign. The campaign was skillfully captured by Ryan RedCorn, a multitalented Osage personality and writer for “Reservation Dogs,” and Daryn Sells, a Navajo photographer and close friend of Glasses.
Throughout the campaign’s visuals, Glasses found immense pride in witnessing Indigenous representation both in front of and behind the camera lens. “Ryan skillfully captured pivotal moments, even the simplest expressions of joy and laughter,” she reflected. “He emphasized the importance of capturing these moments because Indigenous people have often been depicted as stoic. There’s profound beauty in showcasing Indigenous joy.”
The campaign’s roster not only featured renowned models like Quannah Chasinghorse and Phillip Bread, alongside musician Mato Mayuhi, but it also prominently showcased Glasses herself, her brother Tyler, and their parents.
“In such an expansive production, having the presence of individuals from our community felt incredibly meaningful,” shared Glasses. “Seeing many familiar faces I hold close was truly special.”
The presence of cherished individuals within the campaign, including family members and a community of trusted individuals, added a profound layer of significance to the project for Glasses. The collective involvement reflected a deep sense of connection and shared values, enhancing the campaign’s authenticity and resonance.
